So hey, it’s Christy here. We’re going to be talking about today hyperpigmentation treatments for darker skin types — black skin, Asian skin, or even if you have fair skin but you have a-, you are genetically or blood related to someone who ha-, is a Fitzpatrick 4 – 6, so a darker skin type. So that’s what we’re going to be talking about today and what you need to be careful of, because that those type of skin types respond to hyperpigmentation treatments differently. First, I would actually like to do give a SHOUT OUT to Natalya Gordon*, Choua Vang, and Janice B. for giving us feedback that you love the hydrating gel. So, we are actually going to be carrying it because the people in our store, our customers really love it too.
So we’re going to be ordering that soon. I also like to give a SHOUT OUT to Debbie Eckhart for supporting us, watching our channel, our videos, and actually, and, you know, buy many of our products and giving us feedback, so thank you SO much! Okay. So, if you are a Fitzpatrick 4 – 6, like I said, or you are blood related to someone who is a 4 – 6, and you have hyperpigmentation such as Melasma, or Acne scars, age spots, this video is for YOU because, again, the way that you may respond to the traditional hyperpigmentation treatments may actually make your hyperpigmentation WORSE.
So here are some tips. Let’s get started. So if you don’t know what I’m talking about in regards to Fitzpatrick Skin Type 4 – 6, then please click on the description below and that explains all the different skin categories, and you need to understand where you fall under because it is a very good indicator of how you’re going to respond to hyperpigmentation, and not only hyperpigmentation, but hyperpigmentation treatments. So, due to actually an overwhelming number of responses requesting for product reviews, please foll-, we’re going to be starting to do more in-depth product reviews, some on YouTube and other one’s going to be on Instagram, so if you’re not following us on Instagram, please go find us on Instagram, and we are at @GoSeeChristy, C-H-R-I-S-T-Y, all one word.
And we’ll be putting more of those on there. So, the reason why you have to be careful is because darker skin types or — and I’m gonna say the word — ethnic skin — I was told that that was kind of offensive, but you, you know what I’m saying — that this type of skin type is actually it responds very differently. So, they typically — and I’m not saying everyone — but typically, generally speaking, most of those Fitzpatrick 4 – 6 have oilier skin, they have thicker skin, they have more hyperpigmentation problems, such as Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Melasma as well as HYPOpigmentation, such as a Tinea Versicolor, Vitiligo, as well as Pityriasis Alba, Acne, and Keloids, because our skin is thicker, we tend to create more scar tissue. So the good news is because we have thicker skin, the downside is, you know, making more scar tissue, the good news is, is that we tend to show signs of age or aging LATER in life where typically Fitzpatricks 1 – 1 and 2, shows more signs of aging, fine lines and wrinkles, SOONER and have less issues with hyperpigmentation. So for those of you who have fair skin — so a Fitzpatrick 1 or 2 — but you are related genetically to someone who is a Fitzpatrick 4 – 6, you’re gonna, you’re gonna have some more challenges as well, because typically those skin types have more sensitivities, but then when they have hyperpigmentation that comes out, they may not respond that well to hyperpigmentation treatments.
So if you tend to have red hair and fair skin, you have more PHEOMELANIN, which is a lighter pigmen-, pigment, reddish-yellow, usually found in red hair and areas of redness on the body, especially like the lips. For those of you who have darker skin or darker hair, you have more EUMELANIN, and Eumelanin — there’s two types — brown pigments and black pigments. So that’s typically found in your hair and in your eyes, so you have two categories of Melanin. So with hormonal fluctuations and / or inflammation, Melanogenesis can happen, and so I’m going to give a very SIMPLIFIED explanation of Melanogenesis to help you understand why using Tyrosinane inhibitors for darker skin may be a better option.
So the MSH — which is the Melanin Stimulating Hormone — is triggered and released inside the Melanocyte — that is the cell that creates Melanin. So inside the Melanocyte, a process begins where an enzyme is processed an released, and that enzyme is Tyrosinase, and that is released from the RER — the Rough Endoplasmic Reticulum — and converting the amino acid Tyrosine to L-Dopa. So the Tyrosinase binds with Copper and responds on the L-Dopa changing it to Melanosomes. These are basically where the pigment is produced, stored, and then transported along the Dendrites — and remember, Dendrites are the arms of the Melanocytes — and then transferred to the Keratinocytes, and Keratinocytes are basically cells that create Keratin.
So the Keratinocytes in the skin of color have more PAR – 2 receptors — and they, it stands for Protease-Activated Receptor – – 2. So this is actually, this increase is when exposed to UV exposures, and this could explain why darker skin actually is more responsive in creating more Melanin. So there actually is a few more steps in this process but to avoid losing you we’re going to be moving on! So this is the take-away that I want you to realize if you have darker skin or your skin responds by creating a tan more easily is, as you can see, Melanoenesis is a COMPLEX process, so, I wanted you to kind of understand the process to understand that this is why hyperpigmentation, it’s not developed overnight, it actually starts in the lower part of the skin and works its way up through the skin ’til it finally appears on the Stratum Corneum.
So, it doesn’t develop overnight, which means you cannot be impatient and use treatments to expect it to fade overnight. And if you hurry, people who tan easily, and hyperpigment easily, and you use something for more drastic changes, you can actually INCREASE the hyperpigmentation, making it worse because you create Melanin more easily, or more pigments easier. You have to take a more GENTLE approach, yes, it does take longer, but it works to avoid increasing more hyperpigmentation, or even worse is HYPOpigmentation, which is the lack of pigments because the Melanocytes have died and you can’t create pigments anymore.
So this is why gentle treatments, although they take longer, may be better for dark skin. And so we’re going to be talking about these treatment options. And as always, this is for those of you who are already existing with hyperpigmentation, but the easiest thing, really, is PREVENTION. And prevention is, of course, wearing sunscreen, and for those of you who tend to have sensitive skin, wearing a mineral- based sunscreen — and I understand, some of my clients tell me that when they wear sunscreen, they tend to look ashy.
So maybe a tinted, sheer one with an SPF is better for you — but you have to wear sunscreen. Just because you don’t burn, it doesn’t mean you cannot develop hyperpigmentation. So if you are finding this information helpful in understanding hyperpigmentation a little bit better, then if you haven’t subscribed to us, please SUBSCRIBE to us and hit-, don’t forget to hit that notification bell to get notified when our new videos come up every week, and don’t forget to hit that “LIKE” button. And we go into depth, we do talk more about products, but once again, we’ll be doing a little bit more focused on that on our Instagram account. We’re just going to be starting that. So for those of you who are dead set on using Hydroquinone — which is a skin-bleaching agents — studies have shown that if you use this and you use a more gentle approach, it actually can be more effective. So for example: If you use Hydroquinone over-the-counter formula, which is 2%, and then you combine it with a Tyrosinase inhibitor — such as Azelaic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Kojic Acid, and / or Lactic Acid — then it is more effective for darker skin types, or for me, I’m not necessarily dark, but I can get very dark, so I have to actually approach hyperpigmentation treatments as if my skin was dark because I am able to produce quite a bit of Melanin.
So the combined treatment of the 2% Hydroquinone with those Tyrosinase inhibitors have shown to markedly be better for darker skin types than the 4% prescribed and Hydroquinone, to cause less inflammation and less likely to cause Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. Another topical treatment option that you can look into is one that is a combined cream, it’s a type of triple cream where it’s a combination of Tretinoin — which is a-, it’s an exfoliant, it speeds up the skin cell turnover rate so it sheds the skin very quickly. It can make your skin photosensitive — but when it’s a combination of the Tretinoin, the Hydroquinone — which is the skin-bleaching agent — and a type of Corticosteroid — which reduces inflammation but it also reduces Melanocyte activity — this also has been shown to work BETTER. There was a clinical study done that was among 25 Indian women. So these 25 women who had Melasma used this cream in combination with a series of Glycolic Acid treatments once a month for three months, and the study showed that 91% of those who participated in this study showed VAST improvements with their Melasma.
And links and sources of the studies will be in the description below. And actually, I have to put the links of the sources on my blog, so the link will be to the blog and these sources will be in my blog, because YouTube doesn’t like it when you put outside links on there, or something like that. So I will go ahead and put that in there if you want to look more into this study. So in response to our viewers’ request, people wanted to know more about ingredients, but also the some of the products that the ingredients are in. So I thought I would share with you some of the things that are better for darker skin types or people who have Melasma. So, more gentle ingredients besides Hydroquinone. So not that I am against Hydroquinone necessarily, but these are things that darker skin types tend to respond better to.
Although it may take a little bit more time than Hydroquinone, so just to give you an example, here comes the PRO TIP. So the PRO TIP is that, when you’re using lightening ingredients, it is really not only for gentle ingredients but it’s more effective if you use a multi-pronged approach — so using professional treatments along with home care — but also using skin-bleaching agents and / or skin-lightening products, using ONE skin-lightening product. Because as the product absorbs into the first layer, the second layer, third layer of the skin, it-, less-and-less of the product can get to the source where the Melanocytes are. So because, remember hyperpigmentation starts from the BOTTOM, not up, not from the top down. So, to give you an example, here are some things. So for example, this is the sunscreen. So I talk about the sunscreen a lot because this has Arbutin, which is a plant-based lightener.
It comes from bearberry leaves, blueberries, and cranberries, it actually acts as, so it converts it in the skin to Hydroquinone, so there’s more of a gentle time release, so it’s a lot more gentle than Hydroquinone. It also inhibits Tyrosinase activities and inhibits Melanosomes from maturing. So that’s one of the things, this is why I LOVE that, because it’s a sunscreen, it’s an anti-aging moisturizer, it also has Niacinamide. If you don’t know what the benefits of Niacinamide are, then please click on the link below to find out the six benefits, I think it is, of Niacinamide in there. So it also has some other additional ingredients in here, and it-, I’ll-, click-, I’ll put a link in below, you can find out more about this. So when you’re using this, why not use something that has lighteners in your sunscreen as well. And that’s during the day. Because most of the lightening agents they do tell you to avoid using at night.
So, the other thing is, is that if you choose to NOT use Tretinoin, Retinol, Retin-A because your skin is more sensitive, or you want to reduce the inflammation because, remember, inflammation can INCREASE hyperpigmentation activity, then I really LOVE this one.This is the Ageless Resurfacing Masque, but I use it as a scrub, you can also use it as a mask. It has Phytic Acid. So Phytic Acid is actually derived from rice and it’s a lightener-and-brightener. So why not use an exfoliant that also has some lightening-and-brightening agents. And it also INCREASES the absorption rate of the hyperpigmentation treatment ingredients — so lightening agents. So the first one is you would use this first, right, and then, if you’re using a serum, this one is the Age Reverse Brightening Serum. So this has Kojic Acid and it has Phytic Acid, it has several other ingredients, and lighteners-and-brighteners, but it’s also mixed in with anti-inflammatories, so to prevent increasing inflammation, which again, triggers the hyperpigmentation, and then on top of it, this one.
Another one is the make-up. So, if-, as you can see, there’s all these products that you’re using to help PREVENT more hyperpigmentation and break- up the existing hyperpigmentation. So these are what’s different. These are all, in essence, Tyrosinase inhibitors. It’s not really a, an accurate term, but it, it basically suppresses a lot of the hyperpigmentation. Another one you may consider is we mentioned rice. So this is a translucent rice powder, it is NOT mixed in with cornstarch or Silica, and basically, it’s authentic RICE powder, and it’s mixed in with authentic SILK, amino acids, and some Kaolin Clay. So you can use this both as a translucent powder but also as a lightening-and-brightening mask if you want to. So you can actually mix a little bit of this with this. And basically, with this one, it has Kojic Acid, and it also has Niacinamide, and Ferulic Acid — which INCREASES the efficacy of Vitamin C and E, so if you’re using any anti-aging serum, serums with that, it actually increases that.
So it does have a lot of lightening-and-brightening properties. And in that video, I do explain how to use it both for oily skin and for dry skin because the unique ability of the translucent rice powder is most translucent rice powders that are cornstarch or Silica, it just absorbs oil. But the unique thing about rice powder is it can actually ABSORB moisture but also RELEASE it back into the skin or into the air, so it has a more compatible feature whether it’s dry skin and oily skin. So you can see this multi-pronged approach. So remember, make-up is an ART, skin care is a SCIENCE. And for those of you who requested that I do my OWN hyperpigmentation skin protocol, that will be in the next video.
So thanks for watching..
As found on Youtube